August 12, 2024 | Miles Brucker

A Train Trip Through Iran: The Land Of Contradictions


Exploring Iran On A Train

What do you know about Iran? Not just the politics but how people live there? A train trip through Iran's mainland is a good way to shed light on a nation of discretion and contradictions.

Iran Edited

Iran Is A Land With A Rich History

Traveling through Iran is a chance to experience the country's rich history and magnificent landscapes. Everything is colorful and unique, which makes the journey one of a lifetime, especially if you're a foreigner visiting this mysterious land for the first time.

Siemens Locomotives Manufactured In IranHamid Hajihusseini, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

Memories Through The Window

Flying is fast and convenient, but trains let you savor the journey. Many people travel by train, especially when not in a hurry, as they can enjoy the views. It can also bring a lot of good memories.

Landscape with train driving on the river bank in IranUwe Seidner, Shutterstock

Convenient And Informative

For a country like Iran, the train is a convenient way to learn about its economy, culture, and how the people live. It makes several stops, which sheds more light on one of the biggest kingdoms in the ancient world.

Platform of the railway station in Shiraz, Iran.Matyas Rehak, Shutterstock

Trains Provide More Benefits

Taking a train in Iran provides more benefits than enjoying the splendid views. The challenging terrain of Iran makes the roads unsafe. With too many accidents, the train is a safe option for long journeys that cover hundreds of kilometers.

A beautiful sot of a train leaving Tehran to Gorgan in IranWirestock Creators, Shutterstock

The Railway Is An Important Employer

The Iranian Railway is an important employer. Many cleaning, maintenance, and operational workers, in addition to engineers and other specialists, guarantee that the system stays functional. Their dedication to work guarantees that thousands of people can travel safely.

Overpass over platforms at the Tehran Railway Station, IranMatyas Rehak, Shutterstock

Those Who Work In The Railway Are Considered Lucky

Unofficially, Iran has an unemployment rate of 20%. As a result, a secure job with the National Iranian Railway is highly sought after, even if it involves hard work. Maintenance work is usually physically draining, yet many apply for jobs when available.

worker on a construction site. Engineer sitting on railway inspection. construction worker on railways. Engineer work on Railway. Rail, engineer, Infrastructure.Viewfoto studio, Shuttetstock

Borrowed From The Germans

Most trains in Iran were borrowed from Germany, and some were reconstructed. Due to the economic hardships, Iran's railways suffered for years, but passengers can now access cleaner and more comfortable rides with assigned seating to eliminate conflicts.

Empty seats in a german regional train in Cologne with speed blur on Koln S-Bahn suburban trainBalkansCat, Shutterstock

A Huge Step For The Iranian Economy

By the time Reza Shah rose to power, Iran was a weak agricultural country, and he wanted to change that. He believed that stretching railways would help transform it into a regional industrial force, so he raised a tax on sugar and tea for the project.

Reza ShahUnknown Author, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Building A Railway Was A Must For The Oil Industry

Oil was discovered in Iran about 100 years ago, and the railway was needed to transport it to the ships in the Persian Gulf. Although it wasn't meant to transport people, today, millions of people and machines travel to and fro on the tracks he built.

Petrochemical Complexes in PSEEZ, Asaluyeh.Tasnim News Agency, CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Several Structures Were Constructed

The challenging terrain represented a big challenge. Engineers had to manipulate natural structures that went 2000 meters above sea level. Building bridges like the Veresk Bridge, the highest railway bridge in Iran, made it possible.

Veresk Bridge, IranMjforoughi, محممدجواد فروغی, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The Shah Was Skeptical

The massive structure looked impressive but alarming, and Reza Shah wanted to ensure its safety. He asked the engineer who designed and built the bridge to stand under it with his wife and daughter as the first train crossed.

VERESK BridgeAlireza Shakernia, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

The Project Took 11 Years

Building the trans-Iranian railway took 11 years, with 4100 bridges and 230 tunnels made to navigate the country's challenging terrain. Despite the huge construction cost, the project decreased the cost and time needed to transport oil by 80%.

Mazandaran Sevatcow DowabUnknown Author, Wikimedia Commons

Trains Played A Historical Role

During WW2, trains transported weapons and soldiers. At this time, mines were founded to fuel steam trains with coal. In 1941, Britain and Russia invaded Iran and took over the trans-Iranian railway, which was used to create a transport corridor.

Somewhere in Iran. An American engine transporting allied aid for Russia, stopping at a station rimmed by mountains.jpegNick Parrino, Wikimedia Commons

They Changed The Course Of The War

Trains passing through the Persian Corridor transported 646 boatloads of war equipment from the Persian Gulf to the Caspian Sea, allowing the Red Army to launch a decisive offensive against Germany in 1944.

Red Army Finnish flag Winter WarХайкин, Wikimedia Commons

Modern Trains Are Something Else

Iran invested a lot in modernizing the railway and bought new carriages from Hyundai. They're more comfortable and convenient, despite remaining affordable. It's now quite common to see people sleeping undisturbed on the train during long trips.

A train is passing over a bridge in the mountainous region of IranContentino, Shutterstock

Men And Women Sit Together

Although men and women are segregated on buses and metro lines, they get to sit together and opposite each other on the train. Many people book private cabins where they can enjoy privacy and maybe have a quick nap.

Onboard Iran TrainFranco Pecchio, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons

Iranians Are Friendly Towards Tourists

A famous Iranian proverb says that a guest is a beloved of God. As a result, Iranians are extremely friendly towards tourists and will often offer you food or drinks as long as you show respect for their culture and traditions.

Tehrain railway station building of the Islamic Republic of Iran RailwaysMartyn Jandula, Shutterstock

Starting At Shatt Al Arab

What was once fought over now marks the beginning of the journey. You can travel through Iran, starting at Shatt Al Arab, the river that separates Iraq from Iran. The city of Abadan, where the journey begins, has now recovered from the destruction it endured during the Iraqi-Iranian war.

Shat Al-ArabAziz1005, Wikimedia Commons

Leaving At Khorramshahr

The train starts moving from Khorramshahr and heads north on a 1400 km journey that ends at the Caspian Sea. Today's railways were once Reza Shah's prestigious project. Despite the end of the monarchy, Iranians still feel grateful.

Khorramshahr cityHadi Abyar, CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The Journey Includes Unscheduled Stops

In our modern times, travelers should be ready for some unscheduled stops. These halts are for prayers and usually last around 20 minutes. Iran's official religion is Islam, and people pray in the prayer rooms at every station.

Iran, Isfahan, Railway StationRolf G Wackenberg, Shutterstock

The Railway Passes Through Shushtar

As you go on the journey, you'll pass through the city of Shushtar—a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It's the location of a historical irrigation system made of multiple dams and bridges, built in the 3rd century.

Shushtar Historical Hydraulic System PanoramaIman Yari, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The River Continues Through The Mountains

The trans-Iranian trip heads to the Zagros Mountains, passing through the Dez River Valley for 70 kilometers. This is one of the most scenic stretches of the entire route, where travelers can enjoy the views of different landscapes.

A view of Zagros mountainsMandana-r, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

The Highest Point

This journey reaches the highest point on the route, at 2217 meters above sea level, right in the middle of the Zagros Mountains. After that, it reaches Qom, a highly religious city. This is where most Iranians come to visit one of the most popular Shiites' holy places.

Qom Railway StationTasnim News Agency, CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Heading To A Pilgrimage Site

Many visitors come to Qom to visit the shrine of Fatimah bint Musa, a holy site in the Shiiet's faith. With about 20 million visitors, the city's economy flourishes, especially for street vendors selling Sohan, a traditional Persian dessert.

Santuario de Fátima bint Musa, Qom, Irán, 2016-09-19Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

It's Time For A Change

Leaving the traditional trains behind, the trip continues from a station outside Qom. This is where travelers experience high-speed trains. However, the locals aren't big fans since there's no fencing and people can step on the tracks, subjecting their lives to danger.

Qom Railway StationTasnim News Agency, CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

On The Way To Tehran

The train races through the desert while travelers enjoy a state-of-the-art ride. This fast train was built by Siemens with a max speed of 160 kilometers per hour. The tracks follow the Silk Road with magnificent views you can enjoy from the air-conditioned cabins.

Tehran's railway station.Milad Mosapoor, Wikimedia Commons

It Passes By Caravanserais

At this point in the trip, encountering caravanserais or roadside inns is pretty standard. In the past, when people traveled on horses and camels, they spent the night in these caravanserais. It's common to find a caravanserai every 30 to 40 kilometers along the route.

Izadkhvast Caravanserai, IranBernard Gagnon, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The Train Reaches Tehran

The train finally makes it to Tehran, Iran's capital, after traveling 900 kilometers. When Reza Shah came to power in the '20s, Tehran had a population of about 250,000. He modernized the city, attracting more people. Today 8 million people call it home.

Eram Railbus of the Islamic Republic of Iran Railways at Tehran, IranKabelleger / David Gubler, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The Bazaars Of Tehran

Tehran is famous for its enormous bazaars that stretch over several kilometers. Each one contains several hundred shops and creates thousands of jobs for Iranians. The shop owners played a big role in transforming the country's economy by supporting the Islamic Revolution in 1979.

TEHRAN, IRAN - APRIL 15, 2018: View oft the Tehran Bazaar, IranMatyas Rehak. Shutterstock

Guardians Of Public Morals

Seeing Guardians of Public Morals is quite common in every Iranian bazaar. They ensure that women cover their heads using headscarves, including female tourists. Locals and tourists must follow the rules to avoid legal consequences.

Irshad tour in Vanak squareFars Media Corporation, CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Visiting An Ancient Station

While in Tehran, tourists and locals can visit an abandoned station that connects Tehran to Shah Abdol-Azim's Shrine in Rey. It was built in 1888, which makes it a cornerstone of Persia's first railway.

Mashin dodi 2 IraqUnknown Author, Wikimedia Commons

Thousands Visit The Shrine

The shrine was built at an ancient Silk Road intersection 1000 years ago. Since then, it has maintained its status as one of the holiest places in Iran. As a matter of fact, it's the fourth most important pilgrimage site in Iran.

Shah Cheragh Holy ShrineArosha-photo , CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

A Sacred Burial Place

The Shah Abdol-Azim's Shrine is the burial place of many Shiite scholars and their descendants. Non-Muslims aren't allowed to take a closer look at the shrine, and there are restrictions on photography, so tourists need to follow these rules.

Shah-Abdol-Azim shrine courtyardAgha Nader, Wikimedia Commons

The Train Wasn't That Popular

By the time this old railway was built, the locals weren't impressed with the train, which they called the smoke machine. Instead, they preferred to cover the 9-kilometer distance to the shrine on foot to avoid the crowds.

 Iranian State RailwaysHistorical Railway Images, Flickr

Tehran's Railway Station Is Something Else

Back at Tehran's station, visitors are greeted by a massive Quran that workers clean constantly. No one can get onto the train without a valid ticket, and the platforms are open shortly before the train departs for the next part of the journey.

Tehran Railway Station in 2018NicholasNCE, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

A Stop At Cheshmeh-Ali

On their route to the Caspian Sea, travelers will cover 460 kilometers before reaching their final destination. However, they stop at Cheshmeh-Ali, where a large stream runs below a castle. The locals used to come here to wash rugs and bathe.

Cheshmeh-Ali, RayOrijentolog, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

Rug Cleaning Isn't That Common Anymore

Back in the day, most people came to Cheshmeh-Ali to clean their rugs as they believed the water had special qualities. However, most people have their rugs dry-cleaned today, and only a few still come to the location.

Iranians washing and rolling carpets in en:Cheshmeh-Ali (Shahr-e-Rey)tarikhirani.ir, Wikimedia Commons

Reaching The Caspian Coastline

After crossing the impressive Veresk Bridge, the train finally nears its final destination. Seeing rye fields is quite common, as locals use this grain to make bread. If you're lucky, you might get to enjoy some freshly baked bread with the locals.

Veresk Bridge , north of Iran , A memory of Reza’shahAmin Setoude, Shutterstock

Enjoying Some Iranian Food

The Iranian locals are quite friendly and won't mind inviting some strangers over for a meal, especially during the Holy Month of Ramadan. Many of their dishes depend on meat as the main ingredient, like Ghormeh Sabzi and Kobideh Kebab.

Ghormeh Sabzi: the Iranian national dishAmin Majidi, CC0, Wikimedia Commons

Traditional Stew Is A Must Try

Iranians cook Stew as part of every meal. It's made of flour, rice flour, sugar, rose water, milk, and vanilla. The ingredients are mixed and cooked until thick, and most Iranians eat this to break their fast. Train travelers have permission not to fast during Ramadan.

Iftar Serving for fasting people in the holy shrine of Imam RezaTasnim News Agency, CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Reaching Bandar-e Torkman

The journey approaches its end at Bandar-e Torkman. This was once a Russian supply hub but is currently a small port on the Caspian Sea. A short walk on the old track will take travelers to the seashore but trains no longer pass this way.

Bandar Turkman PierHadi Karimi, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

A Sea Tour

The Caspian Sea is the largest body of water inland, and a boat tour will show you some gorgeous islands that are considered protected nature reserves. It's quite common to see wild horses roaming across these islands.

View of Azerbaijan taken during ISS Expedition 56.Earth Science and Remote Sensing Unit, NASA Johnson Space Center, Wikimedia Commons

Reflections On The Journey

Although interviews are usually forbidden on the train, talking with the locals shows they're quite fond of their country. They have a different definition of freedom, where they value society and religious traditions over their desires.

An amazing view of a green GM diesel locomotive traveling on the Trans-Iranian railway. There are a bunch of worn-out rails in the foreground of the frame.Contentino, Shutterstock

The Trip Comes To An End

As our journey ends, we realize that there's more to Iran than what the media tells us. The people of Iran live by their own rules, but the new generations are open to change and what it might bring to their country.

Mashhad, IRAN 05 05 2019:Railway station in Iran with people passing by.Pixiversal, Shutterstock


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